Biker, Bomber, Aviator — which cut are you?

You don't buy a leather jacket by color. You buy it by cut — and the cut decides whether it's still in your closet in five years or given away after two winters. Here's what each silhouette does.

The Biker

Asymmetric zipper, wide lapels, belt at the waist. The cut comes from the motorcycle: the angled zip stayed off the tank when you leaned forward, and the lapels could be closed against the headwind. None of it is decoration.

The biker sits close to the body and ends at the hip. It makes shoulders broader and the waist narrower — on almost everyone. What it can't do: go over a thick sweater. If that's the plan, you're better off with a bomber.

Ours: A True Lovestory and the women's version — our Signature. Plus Nero, Jules, Elon, Ethan, as well as Mayra and Margarita.

The Bomber

Straight line, rib knit at collar, hem and cuffs. Originally a flight jacket, today the most understated cut in the range — and the most versatile. The ribbing closes at the bottom, no draft gets in, and more fits underneath than with a biker.

The bomber forgives builds a biker is too tight for, and it works at the office just as well as on the weekend. What it can't do: stand out. That's usually the point.

Ours: Dean — reduced to the essentials. Velte in cowhide. Pete and Pam with shearling at the collar.

The Aviator

The heaviest piece. Leather outside, a warm lining inside, plus a wide collar of genuine shearling that turns up. An aviator isn't a transitional jacket but a winter jacket — and it replaces the coat.

The weight comes with it: leather, lining, collar. What it can't do: be light. If you want a light winter jacket, you're looking for something else.

Ours: Nox and Nox Women, Forest and Forest Women, Talvi and Talvi Women.

The Racer

Center zipper, stand collar, no lapels, hardly any hardware. The café racer is the cleanest form of the leather jacket — it reads slimmer than a biker and quieter than anything else. If you're buying leather for the first time and don't want to look like you're in costume, start here.

Ours: Stephen — and Daniel, the essential with yoke and sleeve zips, in three washes.

The Puffer

Quilted, padded, with volume. The only silhouette in the range that doesn't come from the motorcycle or aviation corner. It's warmer than a biker, lighter than an aviator, and it's the answer to days that are just plain cold.

Ours: Cocoon and Cocoon Women in sheepskin, heavy washed, with a hood.

In short

• You want the jacket to be seen: Biker.
• You want a jacket that goes with everything: Bomber.
• You want to get through winter: Aviator.
• You want as little jacket as possible: Racer.
• You want warmth without weight: Puffer.

Under every jacket in the shop, Measurements & fit gives you the exact centimeters per size — plus similar cuts in case the wash isn't for you.